Ojinjo

Slowly oven-roasted for around 30 minutes until fragrant and deeply browned, the signature Shinmei chicken is the dish to order as soon as you sit down at Ojinjo. Raised in Mihara, Hiroshima Prefecture, the chicken can be ordered as either "kami" (lighter breast meat) or "shimo" (rich, succulent thigh). Seasoned simply with salt and pepper to highlight the poultry's natural flavor, it also shifts character nicely with refreshing accents like salted lemon or yuzu kosho mustard.

While waiting for the main poultry dish to finish roasting, a spread of small plates with clever twists on izakaya standards bridges the gap. The signature potato salad is crowned with curry-flavored takuan (pickled daikon), lending a lively crunch and aromatic spice to the creamy potatoes. From dashi-infused braised beef sinew to seasonal spring rolls with shifting fillings, each plate shows thoughtful attention to detail.

To drink, the house lemon sours made with Setoda lemons are a staple. Prepared in multiple styles ranging from freshly squeezed to salted versions, their crisp acidity cuts cleanly through the richness of the food. The drinks list also includes beer, wine, and sake, pairing smoothly with lingering snacks like lightly grilled dried firefly squid or Hiroshima oysters marinated in oil.

Inside, counter seating is joined by tables and a cozy raised loft area, creating a warm and lively atmosphere. Given its popularity tucked away in an alleyway of Ebisu-nishi, booking ahead is recommended.